Cold and calm in Skagaströnd

It's Thursday at 21.48 as I begin todays offering. I have been in the studio since around 3.30 after a long walk on the cliffs in virtually zero wind - which is unheard of in Skagaströnd.

I wanted to put a few more of the images from the trip up and to get back into some kind of routine regarding the blog, as it helps me to structure my days and end each one with a bit of reflection. The first 4 images are from the trip to Myvatn, the volcanic area where we went swimming in -18°. The moon was so bright and although we didn't get any aurora, the brightness and clarity of the air was stunning.

Staying in a wooden cabin , we were hoping for clear skies and northern lights, but alas we had to be content with moonshine and wine (still some left over from the previous vinbudin trip).

The visit to the Westfjords was equally wonderful, if different. This is an area of Iceland which has difficult driving all year round, going there in the winter is often impossible so we were checking and re checking the forecasts every 5 minutes. We had a plan, we had booked a hotel and the car had studded tyres, however, we realised very quickly (well, after about 4 hours driving and seemingly going round and round fjord after fjord) that we were not going to make it to Ísafjörður....

Looking at the 2 maps, in the first one, the marker is where we expected to get to within around 4 hours. (the journey started in Skagaströnd, on the western side of the far right peninsula on the map). Where we actually got to in many more than 4 hours, was Drangnes, which is on the eastern side of the Westfjords. It looks like a hop and a skip away, but it took ages and the wind was horrendous.

The experience of feeling that the car was moving with the wind was a bit frightening, but I was so excited! This is a bit of video of the wind whistling past the car, with the light from the sun coming through. If the video is not visible, it is on my instagram 'Alyson Jackson'. 

 We had the most amazing experience of sitting in a hotpot on the edge of the sea, with the waves crashing in and the wind whistling around our heads. The pot was 41° and it was total bliss.... The first 2 images are to show what it looks like in the summer... The 3rd one is the lovely Sophie, a brilliant writer from Dublin, testing out the warmth.

 When we got back from the trip, I felt tired and drained, not least because there had been some bad tension, but I also felt invigorated to get on and make some art. After a day to get my back sorted out and catch up on lost sleep, I made a number of mono prints which I know will form the basis of some layered work. I also managed to get some good walking in and made some nice images. These are a few of the mono prints:

The last one is an impression of the lighthouse which we made a massive effort to get to the night before the car had to go back, but we were totally thwarted by the wind.

Collaborative piece made in anger but it's all ok now....

The scary road to the Lighthouse, which was 30km along a dirt road. The wind was too strong to get out of the car

So, as I've said, I have had much to think about and be concerned about, both at home and here and it has really prevented me from getting into any kind of routine or 'groove' in terms of making work. Yesterday was better, lots of conversations and the healing of time, so as the evening wore on I was already feeling better, both physically and mentally. Then, to confirm that the universe has ways of just turning things around, this happened!

Stunning Level 5 of 9 aurora show. It was extremely windy, so the positive is that they were moving and dancing like mad, the downside is that it's so difficult to get perfect focus. This was around 2am so I eventually went to bed at 3.30am.

I awoke at 10.30, it was still quite dark and so I managed to drag myself up and get clothed in many layers! I went for another walk around the cliffs and the wind was gone - totally gone. It was silent but for the birds and I loved it. I fell over a few times as it's difficult to see where the gaps are and often the snow is deeper than you think, but what a beautiful walk I had. This selfie is weird as I don't remember taking my glasses off.... Anyway, it was a lovely walk and again, I got some images I am hoping to work into some somewhat darker pieces in the coming days. 

I think that's all for today. It's now 10.45 and there's only me and one other person left in the studio. I will start the walk back to Manabraut within the next half an hour or so. Thank you for reading and I'll see you tomorrow, or the next day.... or the next. Watch this space!

And finally:

The wonderful Taylor Swift!!

Love,

Aly x

8 days late....

Hello, from the Icelandic stranger...

I have let you down and now can't keep my promise about posting for 5 in every 7 days. Ah well, here I am and I want to make up for it if I can.

The last blog was Monday the 9th and I had been told to stay in because of the wind. As you can see by the previous blog images, I did venture out and it was very much worth it.

So what have I been up to to prevent speaking to you for more than a week. Well firstly I had to complete a formal qualification to do with my other work and I did that solidly for 3 days. I'm sure I wasn't as efficient as most of my colleagues who said they took less time, but it's done for now, until I get the revisions - which I fully expect...

I finished that on Thursday after the usual procrastination and then picked up a car Friday morning for a 4 day road trip!

An image of my current desktop just shows the level of finding, copying, pasting and losing... Bearing in mind that I usually have a very minimal desktop don't you know! I've had to blur for confidentiality but it's obvious how much is on there.

So to the trip. My 2 room-mates plus another artist set off on Friday morning for the mountain roads. After checking the weather, the road conditions and the wind direction, we set off for Akureyri. this is the second most populated place in Iceland and the intention was to drive there, have a quick stop and then go on to the volcanic area. 

The weather always dictates the journey and I am so au fait with the key pieces of information I need before venturing anywhere. There are the road conditions, the wind/snow/ice/temperature situation and the Aurora forecast. All of these dictate each day, and they all need to work together to create the perfect environment for getting the most out of the very limited light. 

The top left image shows the road conditions. Red is impassable, although the snowploughs are out all the time and they're massive! The top right is the aurora forecast, so tonight (Wed) is a 5 which is brilliant and the white bit over Skagaströnd says that at midnight, we should get a light show.... It will be the first time since I arrived on the 3rd of January, so I am hoping... The bottom right is the temperature/wind etc which changes all the time. There's a new landscape every 15 minutes in Iceland and that's one of the amazing things about this place.

So to the trip. The weather was stunning across the mountains to Akyreyri with the most wonderful light - changing all the time. As always, it seems , the wind was strong and every time we wanted to stop for photographs (every 10 minutes...!) we were almost blown away.

Every time the car goes around a bend, something sublime opens up ahead. No pollution or people, or buildings or cars.

We arrived in Akureyri and grabbed a Subway.... I know, pathetic, but remember the cost of food in cafes is extortionate so we were saving ourselves for later. The place is pretty and it feels busy, but to be honest I didn't want to stay long, rather preferring the loneliness of the empty road and the promise of even more vistas to die (or at least be mortally wounded) for. I also forgot to mention the stop at Vinbudin. The off licence in Akureyri is like the holy grail after no alcohol and it is even more tempting because of having to drive for 3 hours to a access it. I could have bought 12 bottles of wine - well I would have needed a bank loan, but the thought of having a cold glass of Sauv was too tempting and I bought 2 bottles of the cheapest chilean Sauvignon Blanc in the shop which cost 4000ISK. This is around £28. Say no more.... I have no idea how the Icelanders live with everything being so expensive. I know this is a bit of a theme, but I am shocked every time I go to the shop and pay £4 for an avocado.....

Arty scene in Akureyri. -15°

Setting off on the road again for Myvatn, the wind disappeared and it became very calm. So unusual in Iceland as the wind almost defines it. The temperature seemed to drop very quickly as we drove past the amazing Godafoss Waterfall and on to the Hotel for our one night stay next to the cows....

Godafoss at sunset (4pm ish)

The hotel was very interesting.... The restaurant and gift shop had a window on the cows. The cows had big bras on - not sure why, but they seemed to have massive teats, People can watch them being milked and after our dinner - more on that later - we were brought a 'shot' of newly squeezed, non pasteurised milk. Very nice it was too, until I realised that not only were we drinking the milk, I was also eating a burger.....

So to dinner. 5900isk for burger, half a baked potato and some salad. That's around £40. Ok, I'm going on about the food again. Sorry. One of the other artists had the cheapest dish, an omelette. Tiny bit of salad and some ground baked (as in in the ground heat of the volcanic region) rye bread. That only cost 5000isk, so £35. We had tap water - which is truly delicious and free - and went to our rooms for wine. Did I mention that a glass of wine in the cafe was £21? No, didn't think so. 

After eating, which we were advised to do prior to our thermal swimming session, we headed to the Myvatn Nature Baths for a soak. The main pools are around 38° and the hotspots around 42° Similar to last year, we went at night and it was truly freezing outside. There are rules about getting washed properly in the nude before putting on swimming costumes and attempting to stop yourself from running in. Good job we didn't as the ground was freezing and slippery. 

Ice Crystals at -17°

The entrance to the Nature Baths

Just in case you're unsure about the rules..

Frozen hair after an hour with my bottom half in 39° and my head in -18° at its coldest that night.

The feeling of being in hot water and also outside in the freezing air is tremendous. Felt very privileged.

Next morning was spent driving to the volcanic region where the centre of the earth seems to be spouting out all the worst smells in the world.... I'm hoping you can access the video of the bubbling sulphur and imagine the smell..... It's the first image. Can you tell me if the video doesn't work please?

I think I'll stop there as I have the other 2 days to tell you about as the trip to the Westfjords was equally amazing. I have actually made some work today, based on the trips, feelings about stuff that's going on with my nearest and dearest, oh, and the gargantuan stupendous fall out that happened on Saturday night......things are never simple are they?

I want to get this posted as I am so aware of not having blogged for so long. Apologies again. I am hoping to be back on it as I move from morose through a bit sad and worried, to excited and optimistic about this big adventure.

Love,

Aly x (the paddling princess..... water temperature around 1°)

Thwarted by the wind..... almost.

It's Monday evening and I'm sitting in bed in my extremely warm room having earlier watched 'Never Let Me Go' with my roommates. Last night the wind became cyclonic and kept us awake all night. At one point it felt as though the roof was coming in. No snow to speak of, just howling wind. Skagaströnd became a standstill this morning with no real movement anywhere, except a bright orange clad man who walked past the window twice and found it difficult to stay on his feet. We were told to stay indoors for our own safety which we did, counting the minutes and eating what was left in the cupboard. Pesto, Avocado, cashew nuts, feta cheese and pasta. By 3 o' clock it became too much to be indoors, so we decided to brave the relatively sheltered part of the village and explore....

The reason for this decision was that the sun appeared from nowhere.

After a dull, windy and nothing kind of day, this sunshine appeared and the world lit up, albeit through the bathroom window...

So, 10 minutes of putting on thermals, extra socks, hat, scarf, gloves and boots, we ventured out. 

Eleanor being a kid

Abandoned boat far from the sea

The wind was so strong that I could hardly hold the camera still, hence this 'impressionist' image of Sophia.

Sophia and Eleanor weigh less together than I do alone, so they could hardly stand up and Sophia retreated to the warmth of the house. Eleanor and I decided to go to the sea. As I was the one with glasses, I was designated leader so that she could completely cover her face and be led, blind, past the big hole from last year and down to the waters edge. Before we got to the big windy bay, we stopped just above the harbour where it looks from this image to be perfectly calm... (fabulous hat)

So to the wide bay.....

It's impossible to get a feel for the wind from these, but bear in mind that the 'white horses' were a long long way out and seemed to go back to the horizon. Such a sense of insignificance against the elements. Luckily, we had fought the wind against us on the way to the bay, so we were pushed back home again with the wind on our backs - safe and ready for the next storm.

Tomorrow should be ok to get to the studio, so I am hoping to do some drawings. Until next time.

Bless bless

Love,

Aly x